Mr. Martin. a Belgian fashion designer, graduating from the Royal Acedemy of Fine Arts aged 22 he went on to revolt against the luxury fashion world, embracing the eccentric concept of deconstruction, following in the footsteps of Rei Kawakubo from Commes de Garçons, the Antwerp Six firmly in tow. He re-used old wigs, canvases and silk scarves and created new couture garments. One of the earlier uses of recycling. He worked as anassistant to John Paul Gaultier between 1985 and 1987 going on to show his first collection in 1989. His next role was Creatuve Director of Hermès women's line from 1997 to '03.
In 2002, chief executive of Deisel, Renzo Rosso, acquired Margiela giving this quote: 'We are very happy with Martin, but for a long time he has a strong team and does not work on the collection, just special projects.' This fuelled speculation Martin was to not be involved in recent collections, further.
In early 2008 Margiela approached well regarded Belgian designer, Raf Simons of Jil Sander, proposing he take over at MMM, however nothing resulted of this conversation and shortly after Simons signed a three-year renewal contract with Jil Sander.
In '09 fashion entrepenour Rosso made it public that Margiela had not been with the brand for some time, 'here but not here,' revealing that they had a fresh, young design team that creating Margiela for the year 2015.
Mr. Margiela managed to maintain an impressive elusiveness over the years, the only picture printed on s face being in a New York Times article from 2008. This mysterious attitude exudes provocativity, creating intrigue, emphasizing two principles. One: his designs should be able to speak form themselves, and two: that the work is a product of a collaborative team, not just him himself. Thus birthing the name, 'Fashions Invisible Man.'
The anniversary show revealed the importance of Margielas input, including designs which showcased his wit through mirrorball tights and synthetic wig coats. His influence can be seen in Alexander McQueen and Marc Jacobs designs (pointed shoulders being the characteristic in question.) 'The acceptability of shredded jeans owes a dept to Mr.Margiela,' - New York Times '08.
'The last individual vision.' - Azzedine Alaïa on Margiela.
The hoof shoe has become somewhat of a signature along with the Lab Coats, which adorn all store employees.
change caused slight friction between Martin and Diesel's marketing based culture, the additions of more stores and fragrance line challenged Margielas original philosophy that his fans must make the effort to find his clothes. The addition of his name to the original numerical label saw more displeasure from Martin.
Patric Scallons, who resigned as communications director in October '07, was the most public face of the brand for 16 years revealed Margiela believed 'customers should react to the clothes and philosophy, not the news media hype.'
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